This trip report was totally written on my iPad, just to see if I could do it.
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July 2010 Canoe Trip - French River - Hwy 69 to Wolsely Bay
July 8th, 2010
This is the first trip for me in over 30 years. After having a 1948 Peterborough Champlain canoe refinished, it did deserver to be taken on a real trip. That brings us to today. Barb Schering (McKenny), Ken Smith and his son Keagan join me on this trip. Barb used to trip with me when we were members of the Chippewa Outers Club at Chippewa Seconday School in North Bay, Ontario back in the 70's. Ken has been a very close friend since high school and was the person responsible for my love for Ham radio (and technology). If it has electrons moving in it, then we have likely played with it.
The canoe was refinished by Headwater Canoe in Buckhorn Ontario. Dick did an amazing job, and although Buttercup was yellow in a previous life, she is now the classic canoe red and she is beautiful. Yes, she is still canvas, and yes, she will get scratched, but she is designed to be paddled. The canoe is owned by the Philps family and Carolyn (my better half) allowed me to have it refinished.
On the Thursday night before we left, we met at Ken's house in North Bay. As I had never tripped with him, it is important to make sure you take what you need and try not to carry any duplicate items, especially in the kitchen department. Barb, who loves to cook, had prepared the menu and all the major meals for us. This really helps if you have bad weather or a long day.
July 9th, 2010
We met in Sturgeon Falls for breakfast at about 6:30 in the morning. Ken's wife Holly provided vehicle support. From there we travelled to the French River trading post, dropped off the canoes, packs, etc. and picked up our French River park passes. While Ken and Barb got organized, Holly and I headed back to the end point to drop off my car (Wolsely Bay). About an hour round trip, and I was back to the start with the rest of team.
There has been very little rain or snow in this part of Ontario since about October of 2009. Lake Nipissing is down over a meter and it drains into the French River. The French, which is part of the Voyageur canoe route, is down about 2 meters (depending who you ask).
One thing you learn about the French is that when you can, you paddle from West to East, which is upstream. The French is a deep river and has slow currents. The wind however, blows from the west and that can make for a very easy canoeing day (something that was reinforced in our late August 2010 trip--more on that later in another blog entry).
As we approached our lunch stop, I had just given Keagan a lecture on being careful, don't get hurt and try not to cut your feet). I was trying to keep my sandals dry as I got out of the canoe at lunch and immediately slipped on a rock and cut my foot. Not good, as I do need this feet for portages.
There is a lot of cottages in this part of the French, so you will find lots of boat traffic to deal with. However, there is no power in this part of the river, so lots of cottages (or camps as you call them if you are from Northern Ontario) have alternate sources of power. The wind was building from the west through the day and we watched many other canoe groups struggle westbound while we enjoyed a relaxed paddle to the east.
New to me for canoeing is a GPS (what a surprise). I get rolling detailed maps on my Garmin GPS76, and I can see how fast we are really moving. What I learned during the summer is that you can plan on an average of about 4kph from the time you leave your campsite and reach your next campsite. This takes into account lunch, wind and portages.
As we set up for our first night out, Ken caught a nice looking Pike (which he released). I guess no one wanted to clean it.
We had a great dinner of Beaf Stroganoff at about 5:30pm (thanks Barb). Even then, it was about 24C and the 15kph winds from the west helped to keep bugs away (if there was really any). We all retired to our tents about sunset. I was just about to call it a night, when I looked out and was able to see the tail end of a great sunset with Venus very bright in the western sky and a great reflection on the water. So, I ran out, got eaten alive by mosquitos and in about 30 seconds, captured a great night photo.
July 10, 2010
We crawled out of bed about 5:45 am to a wonderful sunrise and a breakfast of Oatmeal and Baegels. It was a lazy morning and we left the campsite about 8:30. About 20 minutes later, my left foot started to swell (this is the other foot from the cut). I suspect that something bit me (spider?), and it was getting worse and feeling weird. We pulled over to open the pack and Barb pulled out some Benadril. That seemed to really help and about an hour later, I never really noticed that I had a problem in the first place. Lesson 2 why you have to protect your feet.
The last time I was at any of the rapids was over 30 years ago and since the water was so low, they looked very foreign to me. Some rapids didn't exist, some we were able to paddle up, some we were able to walk up and a some still required a portage.
Our next campsite was at Blue Chute, which still looked like Blue Chute. However, the Ladder part was dry which you can normally paddle right up to.
The campsite is on top of the island and comes with a great view. But, if you want water, you have to walk down about vertical 50ft with your containers and water filters (we use one of the MSR pumps and it works great). But be careful, they don't float if you drop it.
It took awhile, but at this point, we finally had no cell signal at all. This does now take us fully off the grid with no Faceboo, etc. Life did not end at that point and we didn't fall off the world.
Blueberries were ready to be picked and in a very short time, we had lots for meals and a pie (that apparently has not been made yet as the blueberries are sitting in Barb's freezer).
July 11, 2010
Holly was to meet us at Wolsely Bay about 3pm, which was not 'that' far away. We didn't have to rush off the campsite at all. It was another very hot day and with the wind out of the west again. Before lunch we had navigated the rest of the swifts, lifts and portages to end up on the same body of water as Wolsely Bay. We stopped for lunch about a 40 minute paddle from the pickup point. Here, you could also see just how low the water was. This was our first time we had a headwind to deal with at times, even though we hugged the west shore to keep out of the wind. Lots of cottages here and we passed many people just out floating in their water toys trying to keep cool.
It was great to get back on the water in this way after being off it for so long. If you are a camping type of person, and haven't done a canoe trip, find some time to go. It makes for much more enjoyable trip if you go with someone who had done it before. Remember, that when you are packing, to divide things into 3 piles. Essentials, nice to have, and luxury. Take all the essentials (toilet paper is a great example), none of the nice to have and 1 of the luxuries...you will have to carry it at some time.
The entire gallery is here. Some (if not most) of the pictures have GPS data on them, so, if you
click here, you can see where each picture is on google earth.
Last, but not least, many thanks for Carolyn for letting me escape for 3 days in the woods! What would I do without her!